Monday, October 21, 2019

An Attic Scuttle for the Dummy DIYer

attic scuttle
attic scuttle
We've heard of a coal scuttle before, but the term "attic scuttle" was a new one on us. Apparently, it was new to eHowian Kenneth Crawford, too... Whatever the case, a scuttle is just what we'd always called an attic access and other people called an attic hatch. Crawford clearly had to look it up, and in the process kinda blew it. Read what he had to say in the HomeSteady.com post, "How to Frame an Attic Scuttle."

Although none of us has ever seen one that size, current code specifies that attics above a certain area have a hatch 22" x 30" which is about the same dimensions as your standard attic ladder. Of course, older houses had much smaller traps, usually narrow enough to fit between rafters 16" O.C. (14½", in other words). Oddly, Crawford never actually mentioned the dimensions when he jotted this down in early 2012.

Kenneth started out on a low note, explaining that
"A scuttle requires less maintenance and is suitable if you do not use the attic space for storage."
We weren't aware that a scuttle required any maintenance! Be that as it may, Kenny left out the fact that attic access isn't required because of storage, it's required for access in case of fire. Moving right along, Crawford informed his readers that,
"Installing an attic scuttle still requires some work to the ceiling, however. Framing an attic scuttle uses the same method as framing for attic stairs, although on a smaller scale."
It only requires work to the ceiling if you're retrofitting a scuttle... that, and what does "a smaller scale" mean for framing, anyway? Especially since Kenny just did a copy-reword-paste job on installation instructions for a ready-made attic hatch. The business about locating studs notwithstanding, Crawford did his readers a disservice by telling them,
"If you have 16 inches between joists, the short end of the hatch must be perpendicular to the joist. If you have 24-inch joists, the short end should run parallel between the joists."
We read that three times: WTF does "parallel between the joists" mean, anyway? And either way, how long is that space supposed to be, anyway? And what do instructions like this one mean (for framing 16" O.C.)?
"Cut the joist in the center of the opening with a reciprocating saw, cutting 3 1/2-inches over each side of the opening."
We think it means to cut the joist 3½" back from the opening, but who knows? And what carpenter wouldn't snort in derision at this,
"Set a board on each side with the center face of the board against the end of the cut joist. Place a level across the face of the board to ensure it is straight...."
...and ask, "You mean to use a framing square to make certain it's square?" Crawford followed up on that to tell his readers to double 2-by-6s at each across the cut joist: why? Because he didn't understand the drawings on the installation instructions, and thought they called for two "headers" connecting the joists.
It's pretty clear that Crawford didn't understand that you just make a box frame for the hatch, so all of his instructions that call for 12d finish nails were off the top of his head. If, indeed, you feel a need to double up on the headers that cross between joists, more power to you. You probably don't want to follow the instructions our Dumbass of the Day cobbled together, though, not if you're concerned about structural stability. We mean, really: thinking you square an opening with a level? Ha!
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DDIY - FRAMING CARPENTRY

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